Read all about it…
Our own, Charlie Berg, is mentioned in detail in the current issue of Garden & Gun, along with, of course, John & Karen of Town House restaurant. Read all about it here
Congratulations Charlie!
Benegas-Lynch Meritage,Libertad Vineyards, Mendoza, Argentina – 2005
Grape: Cab Franc, Cab Sauv, Merlot, Petite Verdot
Look: red to purple
Smell: must, spice, burnt sugar, bell pepper
Taste: sharp tannins, medium body, dried red fruit, pepper dust
the bottom line: Frederico Benegas-Lynch the last scion of pioneer wine-maker Tiburcio Benegas, creates a line of wines from his Libertad Vineyards that could easily rival classed Left Bankers in its concentration and age-ability.Intense tannins leave that sharp mouthfeel typical of Agentine reds, but dissipates to a rich, burnt sugar, syrupy quality with a hint of spice. A bit two dimensional and rowdy in it’s youth, I would drink this 10 years from now. Powerful enough to drink with strong cheeses, such as Camembert, Epoisses, and Roquefort.
Chateau Haut-Bages Averous–2000
Grape: 73% Cabernet-Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet-Franc, 10% Merlot, 2% Petite Verdot
Look: violet-red core to true red meniscus, bright and lively
Smell: cassis, cauliflower, meat jus, celery seed, fig newton
Taste: plump, well-made feel on the palate, lots of fresh dark fruit, chocolate, and firm, fine tannins
the bottom line: The second wine of Pauillac 5eme Cru Chateau Lynch-Bages, this is a great example of second wine quality and value at a price point that’s still a good bit over everyday drinking level, but well below its cru classe bretheren. Lynch-Bages should be at least a 3eme or 2eme Cru, and Averous could easily compete with the best cru bourgeois. Very, very enjoyable.
Nigl, Halbtrocken Riesling, Niederosterreich–2007
Grape: Riesling
Look: light straw, white to silver at the rim
Smell: lemonade, fresh uncut grass, canteloupe, vitamin c
Taste: slight sweetness perceptible at the tip of tongue, very light bodied, bright minerally acidity with a delicate impression of tropical fruits.
the bottom line: Pleasant, elegant, super-refreshing to the palate and the wallet.
The Four Graces Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley 2004
Grape: Pinot Blanc
Look: pure gold with sunny yellow highlights
Smell: cooked nectarine, honey cream, butterscotch
Taste: luxurious med+ body, silky, with a lime acid back bone
the bottom line: This really is a powerfully beautiful wine, capable of re-shaping most people’s opinion of often-insipid, mass produced pinot-blanc. The fulfillment of a long-time dream for owners Steve and Paula black, they started their winery in 2003 with the expert help of biodynamic winemaking consultant Laurent Montalieu, and veteran vineyard manager Anthony Van Nice. The Pinot Blanc is from their Black Family Estate vineyard, based on basaltic, iron-rich jory soils in the Dundee Hills region of the Willamette Valley. Named in honor of their four lovely daughters, this wine is obviously a labor of love.
Chateau Montrose 1970
Grape: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
Look: Ruby, ruby-garnet rim
Smell: mulberry syrup, cigar box, gooseberry, leaf-pile, green bell pepper, black truffle
Taste: very firm tannic grip, but well integrated, velvety oak and dark fruit impressions
the bottom line: The youngest of the cru classe vineyards, Chateau Montrose had a rather spontaneous beginning when, in 1824, Mr. Dumoulin, former owner of Calon-Segur, decided to take a random plot of vines and transform it into a grand cru classe chateau. This is one of the classic examples of Bordeaux wine, still vibrant and full-bodied at 38 years old; I’m grateful to my friend Dr. Lee Smith for giving me the opportunity to try a 2eme cru from a library vintage like this. This was a sensational pairing with a sous-vide cooked lamb portion from Thorntree Farms, combined with quinoa grain, sheepsmilk cheese and licorice ’veil’ textures, and black truffle. Yummo.++
Town House Restaurant in the NY Times
Tuesday night the article posted online and then in the print edition yesterday. We’re getting tons of calls and emails already, so the publicitiy is working. We’re all really excited to be a part of the Town House and can’t wait to see what’s around the next corner: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/17/dining/17town.html?_r=1&hp
UPDATE: The response has been amazing as we’ve been pretty much booked every night since the article came out. This blogging stuff takes time, so we’re a bit behind and looking to play catch up over the holiday. More soon…
JR
Campo Negro Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina- 2006
Grape: Malbec
Look: dark red to purple
Smell: musty wet earth, cherry, smoke
Taste: medium body, red fruit, dried watermelon
the bottom line: Chalky mouthfeel with intense tannins and allspice finish. located in the Cruz de Piedra district of Maipu in Mendoza, Pedro Rosell creates concentrated, “crafted” wines using high-tech italian wine-making equipment. This is another great value coming out of Argentina, not widely available, but worth seeking out. Drink this outside, from the bottle while sticking pieces of raw meat into a fire. Good times.
Benegas Sangiovese, Mendoza, Argentina- 2006
Grape: Sangiovese
Look: rich red
Smell: clove, warm spice, stewed cherry, pomegranate
Taste: light to medium body, oak, tannin, burnt sugar, cherry, spice
the bottom line: Born in the Trapiche winery, but with Bordeaux wine-making in his blood, Frederico Benegas produces wines at the highest level in Mendoza. For the price, an amazing value compared to Chianti Reserva. Balanced sweetness to nice tannins make for a very drinkable, but intense offering. Trade bright, plush red fruit for the smoky bracken and dried fruit of Tuscan wines, you know, new world versus old world style and all that jazz. Over all, a very well-made, drinkable little red.
Opinionated about Town House
Friday was a big night with Steve Plotnicki of Opinionated About Dining joining us for a chefs tasting menu. Apparently Steve has eaten around the world three times and knows the food world as well as anyone. Needless to say we were/are excited to have him in the restaurant. The vibe was positive and we’re looking forward to the review…
Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley, CA – 2006
Grape: Pinot Noir
Look: light ruby-purple
Smell: cherry, spice, oak, wet penny
Taste: oak, smoke, black cherry
the bottom line: From the fun-loving, wine making genius of Jim Clendenen, this is pinot noir on par with some 1er cru burgundies. We tasted the half-bottle offering and found warm, nimble spice and cherry, and even a little coppery element that we both agreed was actually an indicator of a “green” wine–this wine could probably go another 8 or 10 years and was actually a bit closed at the time of our tasting.
Chateau Langlet, Graves Bourdeaux – 2006
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Look: gold to light straw
Smell: white flowers, river rock, grass, grapefruit, parmesan
Taste: melon, lemon pith, mineral
the bottom line: This is fresh, drinkable, grapfruity Graves; a long way from Plantier and Carbonnieux in terms of complexity and ageability ( and thankfully price), but still sporting enough gravelly minerality to be in the club. Produced by Domaine Kressmann and located in the old Graves village of Cabanac-Villagrains, Chateau Langlet is actually one of the oldest sites in the area and produces a Merlot-based red as well.
Luis Segundo Correas “El Cipres” Torrontes – Mendoza, Argentina 2007
Grape: Torrontes
Look: light straw
Smell: white flowers, melon, scented eraser, guava
Taste: light body, nice acidity, very clean
the bottom line: Named for the ancient cypress trees on the property, this up-and-coming white is native to Argentina, and along with Argentine wines in general may represent one of the best values in the wine world right now. This would be perfect for consuming in moderate to high quantities mid-summer, on the lake, naked. Its pronounced but gentle aroma/flavor profile would make it very nice with fruits, chilean seabass, scallops, and sea food in general.
Chateau Grillet , Neyret Gachet, Condrieu, Cotes du Rhone – France 1998
Grape: viognier
Look: gold to orange
Smell: clover honey, moldy geranium, crenshaw melon
Taste: silky, spiced honey, flower water, botrytis guava
the bottom line: Dripping with wine esoterica, shocking nose and price point, this little-known yet famous monopole production is the Holy Grail and ancestral home of the viognier grape. This is a wine to study and appreciate on its own or possibly with foie-gras, caviar and cauliflower a-la-Robuchon, or think about this wine with>